You can see more examples of the hat design on my Student Gallery Page.
This pattern is a variation of a design by Mary Jane Mucklestone
Materials for both projects:
Approximately 50 grams each of two highly contrasting colors of DK weight yarn. US Size 6 DPNs if you want to make fingerless mitts, 16” circulars & matching DPNs if you want to make a hat. You can avoid DPNs by knitting the hat or gloves using one long (32-40”) circular needle using the magic loop technique. You will also need stitch markers and a tapestry needle.
Gauge is 20 sts per 4”. If you prefer a larger or smaller sized item, or prefer to work in a different gauge, increase or decrease the number of cast on stitches by a multiple of 4.
The finished mitts will be about 8” in circumference. You may discontinue or repeat the patterns for desired length.
The finished hat will be about 20” at the widest circumference.
The motif is four stitches wide. The graph shows two repeats of the four stitch repeat.
- Cast on 40 sts with double pointed needles in MC.
- Connect into the round, place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round and knit 2×2 rib for 1”.
- Add the CC and follow the chart from the bottom row up, right to left. Keep track of where you are in the pattern high lighter tape or a post it, covering the upper rows and keeping the lower rows visible.
- Follow the chart until you reach the checkerboard portion.
- Periodically try on the glove to check the length and the fit. The cast on edge will be the bottom of the glove.
- On row 24, bind off 8 stitches with MC to create a hole for the thumb.
- Start the first row of the checkerboard pattern, casting on 8 stitches with MC where you had previously bound off 8 stitches to create the top half of the hole for your thumb.
- Continue with the chart. Finish the mitt by knitting 2×2 ribbing or your preferred edge pattern for 1”.
- Bind off and weave in ends.
- Cast on 100 sts with circular needles with MC.
- Connect into the round, place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round, and knit 2×2 rib for 2”.
- Add the CC to follow the chart from the bottom row up, right to left. Use a post it to mark the row you are currently on.
- Once the hat is about 6” or your desired depth, divide the hat into 10 sections with stitch markers. Use a distinctive marker for the beginning of the round.
- Knitting only with MC, K2tog just before each marker for one round. Knit the next round with no decreases.
- Continue to alternate decrease and even rounds until the circumference is too small to knit comfortably on circular needles.
- Once you have only four stitches between markers, decrease every two stitches on every row until you have 10 stitches.
- Cut the yarn leaving an 8” tail and thread the tail thorough the loops with a tapestry needle. Pull the yarn tight and tie a knot by going under a stitch near the center of the back of the hat. Weave in the ends
This pattern is four stitches wide. The graphs below show the pattern repeated twice.
Once upon a time, before there was acrylic, crochet was done with tiny hooks the size of sewing needles with cotton thread. It was very lacy and was used to make decorative collars, lined coin purses and elaborate tablecloths. Here’s an example of filet work by my great grandmother.
Some people still crochet this way, but it’s painstakingly slow and those stitches are tiny. Here’s a coin purse in progress by a friend of mine that I photographed over a year ago. I’m pretty sure it isn’t finished yet.
Things got a little more fun once more colorful dyes became available, but it was still mostly tiny lace. My great aunt made this doily.
Most people imagine the acrylic granny square afghans which were so popular in the 1970s when they think of crochet. There were some ugly, itchy blankets, but I blame the yarn, not the technique. Here’s a lovely granny afghan a friend made me.
My first crocheted afghan was a collaboration with my mother. She started this project, realized that it was a bigger task than she anticipated and enlisted me to help her finish it. I crocheted half of the squares and together we sewed them together and wove in a ridiculous number of ends. It was a massive undertaking even for two people with years of experience. This is a message to all the overenthusiastic new crafters who want to make a king sized monochromatic crochet blanket for their first project. Do yourself a favor and start with a hot pad or a pillow cover.
I think my favorite crochet projects are shawls made in lightweight, drapey fibers. This one is made in a cotton/silk blend and is based on the very popular virus shawl, which is a free pattern. You will need to scroll down a little to upload this pattern.
The next shawl is one of my all time favorites, plus it was fun to make. The yarn is a wool/llama blend, so it’s a cozy party. The pattern is Lost In Time, and yes, it’s another free pattern, because I’m cheap and it’s a great pattern.
This year my challenge was to make a flattering crochet cardigan. Crochet can be thicker and less drapey than knit material. My solution was to do the rabbit hole cardigan with very drapey yarns that have been sitting in my stash. Here it is in a silk/alpaca blend, and you can see how it just drapes like mad. This pattern is basically a giant granny square, but the satiny yarn couldn’t look less like grandma’s afghan.
I tried this pattern again, this time pairing a fuzzy mohair with lace weight alpaca yarn. I crocheted this with a V stitch instead of shell stitch. It’s quite warm in spite of the open, lacy structure.
So there’s a tour of the world of crochet. In spite of the intimidating examples I’ve shown here, more people agree that it is easier to learn than knitting because you only have to manage one loop at a time instead of the entire row at once. And if you ever see something in a store that you recognize as crochet, remember that somebody made it by hand. There are machines that can knit, there isn’t a machine that can crochet.